Traveling the Great Loop

Join us as we travel North America's rivers, waterways, and canals; visit U.S. and Canadian cities, historical landmarks, national parks and river towns. We may even take you to the Bahamas.


Great Sale Cay Anchorage & West End, (Settlement Point), Grand Bahama Island, Abaco

This page covers two destinations:

March 26, 2024; Green Turtle Cay to Great Sale Cay: Today’s run: 67 miles; (indicated on the chart below by the red line).

Great Sale Cay was a stopover anchorage to help breakup the next day’s 71- mile trip to West End, the staging point for the Bahamas -to-Florida crossing.

The predominate winds in the Bahamas are northeast trade-winds, but the islands have been dominated this year by south and southeast winds, even when the wind was not predicted as such. Last night was no exception. When the anchor went down, winds blew from the east, and the anchorage should have been a protected one. But around 3am, the wind swung south, leaving us open to wind and swell. That is the way it has been in the islands this year while at anchor: noisy (wave slap against the hull), and bouncy.


West End, ‘Settlement Point’; Old Bahama Bay Resort and Yacht Club Harbour, Grand Bahama Island, Abaco

March 27, 2024, Great Sale Cay to West End; Today’s run: 71 miles

Overall, we experienced a good ride to West End even though several miles were dominated by south winds causing bounce and mild corkscrewing. As we neared Settlement Point at West End, we had a choice to make: take 1- Indian Cay Channel, (shorter route), or 2-the route through Memory Rock, ( not an inspiring name). We chose Memory Rock because we had heard of possible dangers in Indian Cay, and because the note below, was printed on the navigation chart.

Boats taking Indian Cay Channel towards Old Bahama Bay Marina, head in the direction of the green arrow. The route through Memory Rock is shown in red. You can see how much further it is. During the last hour of our passage via Memory Rock, we suffered a severe thumping due to south winds creating a jumble of wave conditions, so much so that we needed to be cautious when standing and moving about the boat.  Nope, we didn’t get that one right!

We learned later, that every other boater that day, had taken Indian Cay Channel. Sure, they had to proceed slowly while eyeballing their way around bommies, (coral), and they reported seeing depths of 6 feet/2m, but after arriving , they gleefully remarked that it wasn’t so bad. I wanted to slap them for their smugness; I was going to need about three naps to recover from our passage!

Waves rolling in and breaking against the sea wall at the harbour entrance to West End during our arrival.
The harbour entrance on a calmer day at sunset. The entrance plays narrow when dealing with sea conditions like we had at the time of our arrival.
One night, we could see SpaceX Falcon 9 on the Starlink 6-45 mission after it had been launched from Cape Canaveral. It was carrying 23 Starlink satellites.

The marina has a sort of back-in-time feel. We noticed it as soon as we arrived inside the breakwater.

Boats arriving to the Bahamas from Florida often stop in West End, (56 miles east of Palm Beach), because Customs and Immigration are located here for check-in to the Bahamas.

The resort has a history:

Previously known as Jack Tar Village Resort, the original property offered a 27- hole golf course, several tennis courts, a 400-room hotel, an airfield, and the largest saltwater swimming pool in the western hemisphere. The resort closed in 1988.

West End Resorts purchased the property, developed a 72-slip marina and constructed guest suites and condos. Within the same year, (2004), the development, which included several canal neighborhoods, (below), took two direct hits from hurricanes Francis & Jeanne. 

  A year later, Hurricane Wilma swept the area.

There are neighbourhoods on the property that never got completed, like this community that was to be gated but still has property sites for sale. The resort has changed hands at least twice since its beginning.

We borrowed 2 resort bicycles to tour the island.

Piles of emptied conch shells: The Bahamian Queen conch population is in serious decline in the Bahamas.
The closing of the Jack Tar Resort would have had a major effect on this village.
There were 2 grocery stores in the village, one with a good supply of tinned food.
A display of outboard engine hoods, decorate this homeowners property.
Grand Bahama Health Services, West End

In preparation for entering the United States, we submitted the required information document via CBP mobile; (ROAM). Questions included what food was being brought into the country; meat, dairy products etc.  

We emptied our freezers of meat and fish, gathered up all our produce, and collected other foods such as seeds and nuts and then gave them to the man who worked on the docks helping boaters tie up when they arrived. U.S. Immigration/Customs requirements state that you do not enter the country with the above foods including dairy etc. We’re probably one of the few boats that honour those restrictions but as Canadians, we have more to lose than U.S. boat owners. The dock worker thanked us profusely for the food; for one thing we had saved him money he said, but in addition, he confessed the quality of food was above what he was use to. It was nice to hear his appreciation, and after visiting his village, (above), we understood the meaning of his words.



3 responses to “Great Sale Cay Anchorage & West End, (Settlement Point), Grand Bahama Island, Abaco”

  1. serene42404a6f79 avatar
    serene42404a6f79

    So great to read about you continued adventures. Can’t imagine experiencing the swells in the water going through channels. Pretty harrowing experience.
    Loved the pictures of the village and the history of the area. Food is always challenging when boating but laws about what you can or can’t bring into a country certainly complicate things.
    Safe travels . Look forward to you next posting.
    Sent from my iPad

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    1. Thank you Jean, It’s good to hear from you and to know that enjoy the posts.
      I hope you are both well, and if at home, are staying warm!!

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  2. Donna, I will tell you later about a time we had on the Bahamas. Always enjoy your voyage segments!

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