Traveling the Great Loop

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Sept. 30; mile 32; today’s run: 57 miles

Earlier today, we left the Ohio River and turned onto the Cumberland River; (named for Prince William, the Duke of Cumberland, son of King George II). Our destination is Nashville, Tennessee. We will make several stops along the way. Once we arrive in Nashville,  friends will join us, and together we will cruise back downriver and return to Green Turtle Bay. This is a summary of traveling the river each way.

As we travel upriver on this winding tributary, the green marker buoys (cans) are now on our port side and the red marker buoys (conical shape) are to starboard, the opposite to what they were on the Ohio River. Having different shapes for markers is important, because vessels cannot always distinguish the colour from a distance.

 I understand now why some boaters have a red/green coloured gadget in view near their steering wheels to remind them which side to take them on. They flip the gadget around when the navigation buoys change sides. Taking the wrong side of a buoy might result in running aground.

All 4 locks on the Cumberland River are single commercial locks measuring 800 ft /243 m long; (unlike the 1200 ft/366 m locks on the Ohio River). There are no dedicated locks for pleasure boats. When the first locks were constructed on the Cumberland River in the late 1800s to early 1900s, 15 locks were needed to control flooding.

These locks were constructed by hand and horsepower: hand cut quarried stone that was hand laid, ax fallen trees and hand sawn timber. By the time the locks were replaced in the 50s, the Tennessee Valley Authority had the ability to build electric producing dams as part of the structure.

At Barkley Lock, we waited an hour in river current, constantly maneuvering the boat to keep from drifting to shore. The electricity-producing dam, plus water emptying from the lock, creates a substantial current.

While the lock emptied into the pool where we waited, several dark, grey coloured fish jumped 2-3 feet into the air. It seemed that a whole school would jump at the same time. Not long afterwards, they could be seen floating downriver, creamed bellies up; dead.

Earlier, as we had been driving upriver, several dead fish were seen floating along the shoreline. Large fish with creamed coloured bodies, they were easy to spot.  

We learned that the Kentucky Department of Fish and Wildlife use electro fishing equipment to eliminate hundreds of invasive Asian carp at this site. ( To see this in action go to: Electrofishing School of Asian Carp Below Barkley Dam, a YouTube site). Asian carp threaten local fish populations ( trout, walleye, sauger and large striped bass) by decimating available fish food.

It is a timely procedure for towboats with several barges, to lock through the Cumberland Locks due to the small size of the lock. Each barge is approximately 200 ft/61 m long and towboats push several lashed together. (Towboats do not tow, they push). The result is they need to be locked through twice: once for their fleet of barges and the second time for the towboat and any additional barges that were left behind.

While we waited, a barge queued up behind us. We thought we might never get locked through. However, it needed to wait for the down-locking towboat and its barges, to pass him on the riverbend before it proceeded up river into the lock. That was when we were called forward; when the two barges manipulated their cargos past each other on the bend. The lift was 57 feet.

Green Turtle Bay Resort, Grand Rivers, Kentucky

We stayed at Green Turtle Bay, Barkley Lake, Kentucky, two days (and then again on our return trip). It was the first time since leaving Cincinnati, we woke in the morning not having to get ready to leave the dock.

Everyone was so polite; “Yes ma’am, I work part time here at the resort and at a scrap metal yard,” said the young man on the fuel dock. Making small talk I asked, “The company is in the recycling business? ” Yes, ma’am”. “Is it a family business?” I asked. “Yes ma’am. My father and my grandfather own the business.” “Did you complete your education?” I asked. “Yes ma’am, I got my GED.” “Good for you,” I replied. “Yes ma’am.”

And friendly! “How y’all today?” In fact, they’re so friendly that when we walked up town, every driver who passed us in their car, waved. One evening, the local friendliness almost got Mike into trouble. It was almost dark, we were waiting in the resort parking lot for a ride into town. A SUV pulled in, the lady driver waved and then stopped in front of us. Mike opened the door and was about to climb in when the lady exclaimed, “No, no, I’m not an Uber, I’m just looking for a spot to park.” He apologized, closed the door, turned to me and said, “I can’t believe she would wave!” We’re in a parking lot!

 In 1984 William Gary, a retired lawyer, along with other investors, purchased the old Port Ken Bar Marina on Lake Barkley, and renamed it Green Turtle Bay. Today, the marina has 700 boat slips including 37 liveaboards. Services include haul-out and boat repairs. There is a chandlery, and a yacht brokerage onsite. The resort consists of vacation rentals, 87 luxury condos, two restaurants and a spa. The resort provides employment for more than 80 local, full-time employees.

In later years, Gary purchased the IGA store in Grand Rivers, was instrumental in bringing a branch of the 1st Kentucky Bank to Grand Rivers and helped develop the Badgett Playhouse live theatre. Franchises have never been allowed to locate in the town.

We celebrated the end of our first leg, leaving the Ohio River, by going to dinner at Patti’s 1880 Settlement, a local legend in the state of Kentucky and about a mile from the resort.

We could walk to Grand Rivers from the resort.

In 1977 Patti, and her husband arrived in Grand Rivers. They opened a restaurant in a building attached to a 6-unit motel where they served up hamburgers and ice cream in what was later to be known as Hamburger Patti’s Ice Cream Parlor.

Now, the largest establishment in Grand Rivers, the restaurant site consists of gardens, petting farm, mini golf, 8 boutiques, and a restaurant where servers dress in early century-style clothing, reflecting log cabin years.

The estate attracts numerous bus tours, but not during the months of November and December. “Those months are reserved for family time”, said one of Patti’s managers while returning us to the resort in the restaurant’s very noisy gas powered golf cart. (Both Green Turtle Bay Resort and Patti’s, offer rides to and from town).

Patti’s restaurant is known for their 2 inch pork chops and mile high pies. Yep, that was on Mike’s plate!